Transport

Transport plants carefully.  Lift balled and burlapped (B&B) or container grown plants by the ball or container only, never by the trunk.  Do not allow B&B material to fall, be dropped, or sustain trauma that would loosen the soil in the ball.  Injury caused by improper handling may not show up immediately, but will eventually (perhaps a year or two later) manifest itself as cracking or bark separation at the point of damage.

Trees and shrubs in leaf that are being transported in open flatbed or pickup trucks should be protected with a canvas tarp or other material that will prevent drying of leaves that will flap madly at highway speeds.  Even the top of a tree sticking out of the back of the station wagon needs to be wrapped.  Do not leave covered plants in the hot sun for extended periods of time.

Soil

In all cases plant when soil is moist, not wet.  Working with or planting in wet soil can create clods and destroy soil structure.  Run a soil test to determine whether fertilizer or limestone is needed.  Fertilizers are generally not needed until the year after planting unless a soil test report recommends otherwise.

For trees, improve the soil placed back into the hole (backfill) only if the excavated soil is of poor structure or filth and the existing soil contains builder's rubble or is otherwise unacceptable.  For container grown shrubs 10 to 30% of soil may be replaced with an amendment such as compost, leaf mold, or moistened, shredded peat.  In all cases do not improve any soil to such an extent that when the new roots reach the side of the hole they "refuse" to grow into the surrounding existing or native soil.  Loosening and aerating soil is more important.  For beds the entire soil area may be improved before shrubs are positioned for planting.

When planting in clay-based soils, the sides of the planting hole may become shiny and smooth during the digging process.  This smooth side may create a barrier impermeable to roots.  To prevent this "glazed pot" effect, score (create small grooves using a 3-prong hand cultivator or similar too) the sides of the hole prior to planting.

When planting on a very moist site, even plants that are wet-site tolerant will benefit from placing the soil line of the ball up to, but not exceeding, 3" to 4" higher than surrounding grade.  The site tolerance they have once established, they do not have as transplants.  (NOTE: This does not mean that the plants can be set in a little depression in the ground and the ball covered with a little soil and some woodchips.  This is not planting!  If the plant must be set higher than 3"-4", then a berm or raised bed with gradually sloping sides should be created.)

Staking and Wrapping

Staking is unnecessary unless trees are large, top heavy, or planted where winds are strong.  Use untreated stakes that are 1 1/2" to 2" square and will extend out of the ground 2/3 the height of the tree.  Position stakes perpendicular to the prevailing winds.  Drive them 12" into the soil at the bottom of the planting pit for good support.

Connect the stakes to the tree with belt-like straps (preferable) or with wire threaded through 12" of sturdy rubber hose.  Never allow bare wire to come in contact with the trunk.  Leave some slack in the wire or strap to allow some movement of the trunk.  Even if stakes are left in the ground to protect against vandals or other injury, always remove wire to strapping after one year to prevent girdling.  Unstaked trees should be checked 2-3 weeks after planting.  If they are leaning, stake them at that time.

Research indicates that trunk wrapping to prevent frost cracking and sunscald of the bark is not necessary.  Frost cracking and sun scald are secondary to mechanical injury such as improper transport, root injury or flush cut pruning and will not be prevented by using tree wrap.

Balled and Burlapped (B&B) Plants

B&B plants have their roots in a rounded soil ball wrapped in burlap.  The labor of digging, wrapping, and lacing the ball and the weight that must be transported make them more expensive than their bare root or container-grown counterparts.  Advantages of using B&B material are that larger trees and shrubs can be moved, there is less damage to the root system, and once they are balled and burlapped, the plants can be replanted at almost any time.

1.  Handle the ball carefully to avoid loosening soil from around roots.  Hold plant by the ball only; never carry it by the trunk.

2.  Dig a hole that is approximately 2-5 times the diameter of the ball in width (minimum 12 inches wider), and the same depth as the ball where the ball will be placed.  (The hole may be sloped to grade up from the deepest area to 12 inches deep at the edges.)  Firmly tamp the bottom of the hole if soil was loosened in the digging process.  Score the sides of the hole to prevent a "glazed pot" problem.  Before the plant is placed in the hole, re-check the width and depth of the ball, so the tree will not have to be taken out of the hole if the first measurement was incorrect.

3.  Position ball in hole.  Be sure the ball is at proper level by laying a spade or shovel across the top of the root ball.  The handle should touch or be 1" - 2" above the surrounding soil.  If there is any possibility the plant may settle deeper into the hole as the fill settles, plant so the root flare (area where the support roots grow out from the base of the trunk) is slightly above grade.  This root flare must be visible at the top of the ball when the burlap is laid back, but now would be the time to check.  If the flare has been buried in the digging process, gently scrape away soil at the trunk of the tree until support roots, not just adventitious roots, are found.  If necessary, add soil under the ball until this root flare is even with or slightly above surrounding grade.

4.  Backfill the hole two-thirds deep with loosed soil.  Settle soil carefully to eliminate air pockets.  Do not stomp on or in any way compact soil.  If tree is to be staked, insert stake in the hole.

5.  Loosen and lay back biodegradable burlap, checking again to be sure the flare is at the right level.  Remove all rope or string at trunk or stem.  (Synthetic or non-biodegradable burlap must be removed completely or trimmed off as low as possible.)  If the ball is in a wire basket cut away at least the top eight inches of the basket with wire snips.

6.  Water thoroughly.  Allow to drain.  Add backfill to ground level.  Water again.

7.  Prune dead or damaged branches.  Do not prune the leader or other healthy live tissue unless a major structural problem must be corrected.  Shaping is done after the first season.

8.  If desired, create a small ridge of soil around the perimeter of the hole to prevent runoff if the tree has been planted on a slope. (This ridge should be unnecessary on level ground if the hole is large enough and if the planting soil has been properly aerated and has not been compacted during the backfill process.)  Mulch 2" to 3" deep.  Do not pile mulch on or closer than 4 inches from the trunk or crown of the plant.

9.  If tree is staked, attach straps loosely to stake allowing some side-to-side movement of the trunk. 

Bare Root (BR) Plants

Bare root material is planted while dormant, so the season is limited to early spring and fall.  Many trees up to 2 to 2 1/2 " caliper can be planted BR.  Two advantages of bare root planting are the reduced cost (no ball has to be dug and wrapped) and the greatly reduced weight of the tree.  Some plants, like flowering and Kousa dogwood, can be planted bare root only in spring.

1.  Transport plants under a tarp to reduce drying.  Store plant away from drying sun and wind if it cannot be planted immediately.  Keep roots in their original package or pack in a moist medium, such as peat, compost, or wood chips.

2.  When you are ready to plant remove packing material and soak roots in a bucket of water from 30 minutes to 12 hours.  Trim any broken, damaged, or excessively long roots.  Preserve as many fibrous roots as possible.  Remove damaged branches.  Do not prune the leader or other healthy wood.

3.  Dig a large hole.  (Three times the diameter of the expanse of roots is best.  One foot wider than the root mass is the bare minimum.)  Score the inside of the hole to prevent a "glazed pot" effect.

4.  Spread roots over a cone of backfill.  Position plant so it will be upright (plumb) and at the same depth it was in the nursery, never lower.  The root flare must be even with the surrounding grade.  Plants with a taproot should be planted into a flat-bottomed hole.  Graft unions should be at or slightly above the soil line.  Recheck by using a spade or shovel laid across the hole.  The handle should line up with the nursery soil line and the root flair on the BR plant.

5.  Backfill hole 1/3 with soil.  Shake tree occasionally to settle soil around roots.  Firm soil gently to eliminate air pockets.  Water thoroughly.  Allow to drain.  Insert stake, if tree is to be staked.

6.  Add remainder of loosened backfill even with surrounding ground.  Water again. 

7.  Create a small ridge of soil around the perimeter of the hole to prevent runoff if the tree has been planted on a slope.

8.  Apply mulch 2"-3" deep.  Keep mulch at least 4 inches away from the trunk.

9.  If tree was staked, attach straps loosely to stake allowing some side to side movement of the trunk.

Container Plants

Plants in containers have the advantages of intact root systems, lower cost than B&B material, and a long transplant season.  A disadvantage is that they can become severely pot bound if they are kept in their containers too long.  Roots can bend and wrap around inside the container, creating the potential for future girdling root problems.  Handle plant by the container only.

1.  Dig a hole at least 2 times the width of the ball and the same depth.  Score the sides of the hole.  Check the depth by placing the plant in the hole, container and all.  Adjust depth so top of soil is even with or slightly above the top of the hole.

2.  Remove the container (even fiber pots) carefully and completely.  Cut away larger containers with tin snips.

3.  IMPORTANT:  Twisted and girdling roots and matted root systems are often a problem with container material.  If necessary, make several vertical slices through the sides of the outer layer of roots and the growing medium an inch or so deep.  Cut up through the bottom of matted roots about 6 inches.  Spread out roots of pot-bound trees.  Trim broken or damaged and excessively long roots.

4.  The soil balls of plants like rhododendron and azalea may also be "butterflied" by slicing through the center of the ball about three inches down from the crown and entirely through the center of the ball (the effect is like creating a pair of pants out of a skirt.)  The ball is pulled apart slightly at this slit to enable it to be planted over a cone of soil in the hole.  This method also allows for the roots to be higher in the soil, a must for these shallow rooted plants.

5.  Since most container material is in a highly organic potting medium, up to 30% of the backfill can be amended with an organic material such as composed or moistened peat.  Add this improved soil to hole.  Firm soil lightly to settle.

6.  Position plant at proper level in the hole.  Wedge a clod of soil or some backfill under the soil mass if needed to support the plant in an upright position.

7.  Fill hole about 1/3 with backfill, firming lightly around base of ball and carefully eliminating any air pockets.  Insert stake, if tree is to be staked.

8.  Water thoroughly, allow to drain.  Add backfill even with surrounding ground.  Water again.

9.  Apply 2"-3" of mulch.  Do not pile mulch on the trunk or crown of plant.

10.  If tree was staked, attach straps loosely to stake allowing some side-to-side movement of the trunk.

For general information on Ball Sizing and Ball Diameter - Weight/Quantity per Trailer, click here.

Information courtesy of Barbara Bromley, Master Gardener - '03-'04

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